This article has been pretty much made obsolete thanks to
Performance. They are the first to create and currently the
only ones with a three phase drop in stator. This stator is a
direct replacement for any horizontal motors stator and allows you to
simply bolt it on and plug it in to the MadAss wiring harness. You
no longer need to alter your factory wiring... AWESOME!
You can find the new
three phase stator here.
1. Let me first start with the fact that I am
NOT a mechanic. I have been working on motorcycles and scooters for
a long time and know a little about what I am doing. I simply take
pictures for other people to use as a guideline to help them modify their
own motors. Any modifications you perform are done completely at
your own risk and liability.
2. Tampering with your motor in any way may void your warranty.
Make sure this is a sacrifice you are willing to make before you begin
working on your own vehicle.
3. Before you begin, read this ENTIRE article from start to
finish so you know exactly what is involved and what steps are required
to properly complete the procedure. Also make sure you have a nice
clean area to work in.
4. This example was performed on a 2006 Sachs MadAss 50cc
ALL bolts and socket head cap screws are in metric! Don't try to work on
your vehicle if you don't have metric tools, you will just wind up messing
up the heads.
|Well, without a doubt,
the most difficult thing with our motor upgrade and conversion was the
wiring. Reading all over the internet, and listening to all the
problems people had run into in the forums, we knew we were going to be
in for a headache. But that is OK, we suffer the headaches so you
don't have to.
I want to start by giving you some background / insight / heads-up as to
why there is such a problem with the wiring.
First and foremost, most dirt bike, pit bike, 4 wheelers, ect. running
horizontal motors are typically powered by an AC single phase stator.
The MadAss uses an AC three phase stator.
Second, everything on the bike is powered and operated off of DC
current. Most other horizontal motors run AC lighting and CDI
units. The MadAss actually has a very large DC rectifier that
converts that 3 phase AC current into a lot of DC power to run
everything on the bike including lighting, accessories, ignition and
charge the battery.
A typical horizontal motor stator setup has 2 separate coils, one to
power the ignition and one to power accessories. However, the
accessories are usually powered by AC power, not DC. On motors
with electric start, there is typically a rectifier included, but this
is usually used to just keep the battery charged for starting. The
lighting and other accessories are still powered by direct AC power
supplied by the stator.
So, the issues we ran into were:
1. How are we going to swap a single phase unit for our 3 phase
2. How are we going to generate enough power to run all the
accessories in DC current since really no stators available for these
types of motors generate that much DC current with what is available on
Lets now show you a diagram of the MadAss Wiring
|Some things to take
note on are, notice that there are only 4 wires coming from the motor...
3 yellow and a blue/white. The 3 yellow are the three legs of the
3 phase AC power, and the blue/white wire is the spark pulse ignition
Also notice that the kill switch grounds the pulse wire for the ignition
hence killing any chance for a spark.
Now take notice to the fact that the CDI box only has 4 wires instead of
a typical 5 wire CDI.
And the last key thing to notice is that the ignition switch in the on
position actually turns on the positive lead for powering the CDI box
and give the rectifier a positive signal.
Now lets look at a diagram for a typical horizontal motor wiring:
Now you can see that there are 2 separate coils, one for ignition power
(Black/Red) and 2 for the AC accessory wiring. The yellow is the
"Hot" wire and the white is the neutral wire. You can see that
there is a branch off the yellow wire where accessories are run off the
AC power. Then the White and Yellow wires go into the rectifier.
This set-up is for electric start motors and simply generates enough
power to keep the battery charged for starting the motor. It is
not meant and is incapable of powering accessories with heavy loads.
Also notice that the kill switch does not kill the pulse signal, but
instead kills the CDI box. This is done by grounding the CDI out,
where the MadAss turns the CDI on with a +12V signal. Also notice
that the ignition isn't really designed for use with a key switch.
However, that is easily overcome. The tricky part was being able
to kill the motor with the key switch which only sends a positive
signal, but the new motor CDI requires a ground signal.
To fix this problem, we added a relay that is normally closed. We
are relaying a ground signal to the CDI to kill it. When the key
switch is turned on, power is sent to the relay, lifting the contacts
which breaks the ground to the CDI enabling it to run.
Now we tried a few stators and a few rectifiers. We found the best
solution was the set up offered by
stator kit has a large rectifier capable of outputting the power we
need to keep the bike running tops. This kit is pretty much
exactly like the diagram shown above, but instead adds a 5th wire going
into the rectifier. This is to turn on the rectifier and monitor
the voltage so it can increase the output if the voltage drops from
heavier loads as accessories are turned on.
OK, so after all of that, lets show you how our current wiring diagram